Kenya 2023: Chapter 34 – Shrinking World
The Mara is changing from the last time we were here. Our first impression of this place four years ago was one that was still very wild and separated from the rest of the world. But the world is closing in.
The rarely seen wild excavator.
There are new roads in parts of the Mara. The road to get here from Narok is now paved right to the gate. While this reduces road time from Nairobi, it does take away from some of the adventure of it all and we miss the Kenyan massage. It also means greater access for the masses and perhaps demand over time would lead to paving roads inside the park. Lenny assured us that the government has fully protected the park and will not allow paved roads.
Cell service and speed has greatly improved. Good for information transfer, but we saw a much higher number of safari guests playing on their phones or on business calls while surrounded by amazing wildlife. Unfortunately, on some long drives we committed the same sin.
Keekorok used to cut power from about midnight to 4 am to allow animals to come through the camp, especially the hippos that wallow in the mudhole not far from the lodge. No more. Power and lights are on all night, which keeps the animals away. No more grunts from hippos outside or jackals in the courtyard.
Of course, climate driven impacts were the most noticeable. Last time, we could barely talk to one another without shouting over the cacophony of lowing wildebeests. With the shorter rains, the migration has changed, delaying the arrival (which began in mid-July) of the herds and shortening their stay.
But, for all of these changes, there are some bright spots. Kenyans are adapting to green energy better than most of the rest of Africa. An astonishing 80% of energy comes from renewable resources and their environmental efforts are ahead of some developed countries. The Mara is still rich with wildlife and unspoiled landscapes. You can almost always count on a good sunrise or sunset bathing the beautiful plains, lakes, and forests in golden light. The Kenyan people, as always, are cheerful and helpful and kind. It’s truly a magical place and as long as Kenya never loses its magic, it’ll be alright.
