Kenya 2023: Chapter 24 – Tembo na Twiga

Baboon in an acacia

From Oloololo we headed south and then turned east into the marsh. Immediately we found ourselves in the midst of a herd of elephants. One of the things we wanted to capture was more animal behavior on this trip and the elephants were happy to oblige. Several scratched a good itch on a dead tree, shaking it. A massive bull with huge tusks threw his weight around and pushed aside another member of the herd. This was by far the biggest tusker we had seen (and is where the Kenyan lager derives its name). 

Evidence suggests that elephant tusks are growing smaller. The reason is simple and unfortunate: poaching. Poachers seek the biggest prizes, allowing elephants with smaller tusks to breed. Poaching of all animals is alive and well in Kenya. In many cases rangers, meant to protect these animals, neither hear nor see anything related to these kinds of activities. Roads may be suddenly blocked off with rocks and a rudimentary sign, a possible indication of poaching activity. Many animals, cheetah cubs in particular, find their way into Middle Eastern countries, primarily Saudi Arabia, as pets for the ultra-wealthy. 

The elephants moved around the truck as water flows around a stone in a river. They paid us no mind, walking silently. 

A short ways down the road we found several giraffes grazing on the leaves of an acacia. The road got marshier and marshier and eventually we were forced to retreat back to the main road. There’d be no one to pull us out quickly today if we got stuck.

Back on the main road we found not one, but two lilac-breasted rollers in a gnarled fig tree just above the truck. After spending time with the pair we trekked back across the north end of the park to search for the Marsh Pride, but without any success. 

We settled for lunch under the watchful gaze of a giraffe.